Toe hook climbing These techniques require special design features, and the La Sportiva Genius is particularly good at heel hooking thanks to the rubber around its heel cup. Apr 16, 2025 · Pointy toe is excellent in seams, thin cracks/pods, dishes, and pockets; Solid build and stiff 1. Paige Claassen developed the above drill while training for a hard project in Norway. What are the basic rock climbing footwork techniques that will improve climbing technique and efficiency? Basic footwork for rock climbing includes mastering these 4 techniques: Edging, Smearing, Toe Hook, and Heel Hook. Practice at a climbing wall. Sep 18, 2023 · There’s a reason that modern climbing shoes feature rubber not just underfoot, but wrapping all the way around the heel and over the forefoot (and it’s not just for the sake of a higher price tag). 02. 3. Finally, when the heel-hook is lower down or at the end point of a big compression move, point the toe downward to Jul 11, 2023 · Bouldering. Depending on the body size and weight of climbers, as well as anatomical factors and conditioning, their climbing arsenal and body movement repertoire also vary. Heel placement is just as important as being able to recognize a heel-hook opportunity. Instead of having no foot on one side, make that an undercling for a toe hook. The Rubber. Toe hook. For toe hook, I cannot feel much engagement from the toe to my arms, feel weak. Rubber is usually not in play, but some shoes do have rubber all the way up the arch, such as the solution or the now-defunct 5. Their unique “love bump” helps maintain the downturn over the life of the shoe and pushes your big toe forward. And then you toe hook! Suddenly, your anterior tibialis and toe extensors aren’t just carrying your foot against gravity, they’re pulling against a percentage of your body weight. . Perfect for beginners and experienced climbers alike!• Nov 12, 2019 · Toe hooks employ your toe knuckles to hook under a hold. We’ve made it easy for you to discover local climbing wall in your area Nov 16, 2017 · Hooks, insbesondere Heel-Hooks, zählen zu den zentralen Techniken des Boulderns. To execute a toe hook, the top of your toes must come in contact with the underside (or sometimes side) of a hold. When you see an arête or edge that could be heel-hooked, but you can’t quite reach it, try using the top of your foot or even the instep, to hold your body in place. This is definitely the best way to utilize the toe hook, but there are a lot of times it hurts my climbing otherwise. Jul 14, 2019 · The Toe Hook. Sometimes a toe hook that's too close will make it hard for me to keep tension on the next move with my hips sagging. Position 2: Side heel – toe to the side. So, I can use a toe hook along with that coordination of my core muscles to keep my body in place. Just like it’s counterpart, the toe-hook can make steep and powerful moves feel doable. Still, they’re certainly advanced for absolute beginners. Want to know everything you need to know about how to climb the Breithorn - one of the classic "4,000ers". First, toe hooking always involves some level of ankle dorsiflexion. He placed his toes under the edge and hooked them upwards, creating a toe hook that allowed him to stabilize his upper body and reach for the next hold with confidence. Gotten stuck on this route which made me realize that I suck at toe hooks lol. To place a toe hook, you use the top part of your toe (that's why they put rubber there!) to pull sideways against an arete or side pull or you can pull inward on an undercling to help keep your body from swinging out. Heel Toe Cam: A Combined Approach. Jun 15, 2012 · The basic heel-toe is your building block. Some holds can be toe hooked or heel hooked, while with other holds one technique will be your only option. Bouldering is the most simple, most accessible, and thus most popluar form of climbing. And in order for the toe to hook and remain hooked, two things Jan 25, 2024 · Even though toe hooks aren't as popular as other climbing techniques, learning them can greatly expand your climbing repertoire In this guide, we'll delve deeply into the topic of "toe hook climbing. iii) Marginal toe-hooks and compression toe-hooking. With the high difficulty levels achieved, the legs have come into their own with a very broad scope of active performance moves with Heel pushing and pulling (heel-hook) and the Upper part of the foot pulling (toe hook). They aren't quite as flashy as toe hooks, but they are incredibly useful and actually have a better transition than the heel hook. Developing the correct footwork and optimal use of your feet, not only will save you a lot of energy while mastering climbing Feb 14, 2022 · To toe- hook, wrap the top of your foot around a corner, above a lip or in an “undercling” position. I can only do the move if jumping to the jug. Oct 15, 2021 · Never attempt a heel hook without good climbing shoes. And perhaps the most standout feature is the price: While most of the competition slides in between $190 and $220, Five Ten (aka Adidas) has managed Jan 2, 2020 · Struggling with toe hooks? The technique is less intuitive than many other climbing moves. Sometimes they are also useful on less steep routes, but balance can be a bit more tricky in Apr 20, 2022 · 7. See full list on climbing. Before making this move, approach carefully and take your posture and confidence into consideration. Practice this in a relaxed sitting or standing position first. Heel Hooks and Toe Hooks. Position 3: Low heel – toe down. Use your ankle to raise your toes back towards your knee while straightening your leg––you should feel tension in your ankle, calf, hamstring, knee, and quad. As you gain height, rotate the foot so the toe points outward to the side. The VSR eats steep boulders for breakfast The biggest difference between both shoes, however, is the heel design. Any time you toe-hook, your goal should be to make a 90 degree angle between the top of your foot and the rest of your leg. Toe hooking is especially important on overhanging terrain to keep the body close to the wall. Try it with and without the toe hook to see the difference. Heel now seated, cam your toe in opposition — placing it under a small roof or lip, or smearing against the wall — and Nov 17, 2023 · This learning curve was short lived once we realized wearing the Mantra is a lot like climbing barefoot—except stickier and less painful. In this technique / maneuver, you’re using your foot as a third limb to grab (hook) a hold vertical upwards. A climbing technique that consists of using the toes and the top of the shoe’s forefoot as point of contact with the wall to stabilize the body and progress upwards. Nov 11, 2023 · The toe patch on the Scarpa is also made of thicker dual-texture rubber, so feels better when cranking hard on a toe hook. When a climber strategically places and digs their heel into a hold, the hamstring muscles contract and pull the tibia posteriorly to create a rotational force to bend the knee to help lift or stabilize the climber to make the next move. Mar 6, 2023 · Horizontal pulling, which tends to look like pulling into the wall, is a critical move in climbing and something that often gets overshadowed by pullups. Sie zu beherrschen wird bei dieser Spielart des Kletterns bereits deutlich früher wichtig, als es am Seil der Fall ist. Skills. Mountain Guide Andy Perkins offers his insider tips. Also the start is V3-V4 but the rest is feels closer to V2-V3. A sibling of the best-selling Solution, the Comp series differs in that the heel cup is softer, extra rubber is added along the toe for heel hooks, and the midsole is more flexible. youtube. Beim Hooken wird der Fuß nicht einfach gestellt, sondern zieht aktiv am Tritt, was hilft, den Körper beispielsweise in steilen Routen an der Wand zu … Der Fuß als Anker (Teil 1): Wie man Jul 23, 2023 · 95. Mar 25, 2020 · Part of our "Toes to Knows" Climbing Academy series--covering climbing from footwork to mental preparation. Need the knee, which means needing the toes. Jan 7, 2019 · A common mistake is to miss toe-hooks around the sides of boulders, as they lie outside the standard field of vision. If you have ever had a pair of shoes that use Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber, you will know these guys know how to make some sticky soles. Sep 30, 2014 · Aid Climbing – climbing with mechanical aid such as nails, hooks, bolt ladders as opposed to only using features of the rock to ascend; opposite of free climbing. 1 mm full-length LaspoFlex midsole point toward improved longevity and resole-ability; Redesigned heel is form fitting and responsive in hooks and heel-toe cams // Burly laces have held up well to abrasion in cracks; Cons Oct 29, 2023 · Jain Kim, veteran World Cup gold medalist, finding a crucial heel hook in the Lead World Cup, Xiamen, China, 2019. Ankle dorsiflexion is the act of drawing the toes back towards the shin. Climbing walls are a great way to start climbing and to stay fit. Toe-hooking gives you a few more inches than heel-hooking. The following three techniques (heel hook, toe hook, and layback) may not be pro-level maneuvers. Apr 26, 2017 · There are several steps to take to execute a toe-hook: Foot Positioning; First you should work on the positioning of your foot. The hold needn’t be a bucket or otherwise incut — it can be vertical, horizontal, or slanted, if there’s a feature nearby for the toe cam. Dec 1, 2023 · Some holds can be toe hooked or heel hooked, while with other holds one technique will be your only option. If a sloper is too much for you, try to find a toe hook to help you stick to the wall. You can even press the top—the lace or Velcro area—into the wall in a toe drag to help keep your hips in when making long reaches. The three main uses of them, how to keep them on, and why they are so useful!KEEP UPDATED WITH Dec 1, 2023 · A toe hook is similar to a heel hook in that it is a method of hooking your feet around holds in order to reduce strain on your arms and maintain tension. The upper rand of the toe box is equally as impressive. The design of the toe rand is the company’s logo and while it looks pretty rad, it also works really well for toe hooks and cracks climbing too. Integrate it into your normal gym routine to see fast progress with your footwork. For now, I am just climbing more on these problems to get better at it. Place as much of the heel on or around a hold. Apr 18, 2023 · Go to https://athleticgreens. I've got pretty weak arms, so I really try to keep my hips tight to the wall and use my feet. The Toe Hook is a technical move where the top area (not just the toe) of a climbing shoe is used to maintain control on the wall. This is a great move for short people because it lengthens you. Go through different scenarios and maneuvers before attempting steep outdoor terrain. Apr 11, 2024 · Different heel hooks prefer different shoe stiffnesses, but in either case, the pointing of the toe away from the climber’s body, and the direction toward which they are pulling is essential for this technique. Most Comfortable: Ocun Jett QC ; Best for Jumping Grades: Butora Acro ; Best Value: Black Diamond Method; Best for Bouldering: Scarpa Drago LV ; Best for Sport Climbing: La Sportiva Solution Comp; Best for Trad Climbing: Scarpa Vapor S; Best for Narrow Feet: Red Jun 8, 2022 · Or when we need a strenuous knee-bar rest, which strains our toes, maybe insanely? Big-toe strength isn’t just handy for the occasional bit of slab climbing—we need it for everything. full-foot toe hooks, as if you're hooking a feature or a lip and you can use the whole rig. Toe Hook. But before we dive into the routines, let’s look at the biomechanical functioning of the toe during climbing. More . By hooking your heel over a flake or edge, you are able to pull with your leg. Done! When executed properly, a heel-toe cam locks your heel in place on its hold, while simultaneously providing leverage on the toe (see also toe kooks below). Bicycles, toe hooks, and all sorts of 3D climbing techniques are the Drago’s strengths outdoors Dec 17, 2024 · With a huge pad of sticky toe rubber, an aggressive downturned shape with lots of sensitivity, and a Velcro strap to keep the shoe from sliding off on heel hooks, this shoe screams steep climbing. As for the cut feet swing move, I cant quite control my body, always swing and slip off. Bat-hang – hanging from two toe hooks, no hands! Aug 1, 2023 · As always, it’s good to read the route before climbing to identify spots where using a heel hook will make your climbing more effective. Jul 13, 2022 · Supportive on small foot holds // Stiffness reduces foot fatigue on long multi-pitches // Toe patch is protective for crack climbing and super sticky for toe hooks and heel-toe cams // “PAF” heel system takes the pressure off of the Achilles while micro edging // Feels light and airy, especially with the newly breathable tongue Toe-Hook. Emily noticed a large volume on her climbing route. Apr 16, 2025 · Heel hooks, toe hooks, and other creative footwork are much more important on steep terrain. Learn everything you need to know about heel hooks and toe hooks in climbing with this complete guide. Having strong and mobile ankle dorsiflexion is beneficial in climbing for several reasons. com/emilabrahamsson to get started on your first purchase and receive a FREE 1-year supply of Vitamin D3+K2 and 5 travel packs. The first heels you throw will likely be low and at normal foot height, but eventually you’ll master heel hooks above your head. I believe that the toe hooks where my legs are bent, my hip strength/flexibility is a factor. Toe hook performance at arch. The specific use of these techniques comes well within a more evolved period of climbing. This is my ABSOLUTE go-to move on any angle! I’ve even used it on a slab problem. It is not uncommon for toe hooks to involve flexing your ankle as much as possible. Oct 12, 2018 · When the heel-hook is relatively high above you, place it as for a 'conventional' heel-hook using the ball of your heel, with the toe pointing upwards. 4. She locked in a toe hook by pressing her toes against the volume's inside edge, creating tension with her foot. I could splay out my toes on slick volumes, grab bulbous holds on the steeps, reel in heel and toe hooks on powerful aretes, and smear up friction slabs both indoors and out. Though incredibly simple, many climbers neglect to utilise this move to save energy, maintain body tension and prevent cutting. Often when my taller friends use a heel hook, I use a toe hook to give me those few essential extra inches. Paige Claassen: Train Toe Hooks the Easy Way Check out Paige Claassen's author page. Jan 30, 2024 · A strong toe-hooking technique requires repetition and appropriate foot placement. Any time you toe-hook, your goal should be to make a 90 degree angle between the top of your foot and the rest of your leg. Jun 9, 2020 · Toe Hook Technique Tips for Rock Climbing Beginners and Intermediates We have gone over the main factors that will determine if your toe hooking will be effective. Utilizing these areas unlocks a whole new side of climbing. By pointing the toes outward, you can use some of the side area of the heel for more contact with the wall. Toe hook: This is the process of hooking your toes behind a hold. Work on your strength and footwork at an indoor climbing wall. Climbing Technique: Heel and Toe Hooking Heel hooking is the technique of using the foot as a ‘third hand’. Heel hooks are notorious for hamstring injuries. Jan 2, 2024 · The Evolv Shaman is an aggressive shoe designed by the man himself, Chris Sharma, for climbing the world's hardest routes. It is useful and requires time to master. How to Execute the Heel Hook. Position 2: Side heel - Toe-to-the-side This is the classic 'compression' position, which is used when the target feature is level to your hips and out to the side (or at the mid point during a Mar 19, 2024 · Because, at the end of the day, the best climbing shoe is the one you like wearing. From positive volumes to slopey holds, a carefully placed toe-hook can provide balance, tension and pull-power while Another climbing specific consideration are the heel hooks. With its smooth integration of a heel hook and a toe hook, the heel-toe cam provides versatility. Feb 28, 2022 · Hard steep climbing requires aggressive shoes with power and precision, and no other climbing shoe does both better than the La Sportiva Solution Comp. It’s all about technical, difficult moves on short routes—generally no higher than about 15 feet from the ground. Full Playlist: https://www. Hey, guys! This Training Series Video is focused on Toe Hook. The heel is meant for heel hooks, at many different angles, to help lock you into the wall and suck your hip in to make long reaches. (Photo: Eddie Fowke / ISCF) Not all, but some heel hooks require knee flexibility for proper, safe execution. ". It’s more common to use a heel hook climbing, but toe hooks are still important to have in your climbing arsenal. It’s more common to use a heel hook climbing, but toe hooks are still important If you want an actual move to try with a toe hook, find a situation where you would normally barndoor. How to do it: Identify where you want to go and identify the handhold that you want to leverage. In the dark ages, the shoes that edged the best were the ones that fit the tightest. Sometimes a toe-hook can be used to assist with progression on arêtes or rounded prows, as opposed to merely using them for balance or releasing a hand. May 21, 2020 · Toe hooks are usually used when you need to keep your body tight against the climbing wall while needing assistance of a foothold to pull in the opposite direction. com/playlist?list=PLLALQuK1NDrjugIQA3Te01g3ksXghWCMR--Rockin’ Rock Climbing CommoditiesMomentum Climbing Harness: http://a The position is a fairly simple one: place your heel as you would for a heel hook, then wedge your toe behind another hold. Mar 10, 2025 · The Scarpa Drago ($209) is a precision tool, dialed in for steep bouldering and sport climbing. Comfort can be a factor here. com Jul 11, 2022 · The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. Tags: Footwork, Advanced Toe hooks are often needed to control your lower body on steep routes in a bouldering cave. I also don’t generally use them a lot so maybe I’m not even using them when I should? I’ve seen people use toe hooks on mantles when I thought you should heel hook so it might just be my inexperience . To initiate, first jab a heel onto a likely hold, ideally one of at least heel width. No ropes, only shoes and chalk (and hopefully some ground pads). These maneuvers are mostly done on upside-down Apr 27, 2022 · When the heel-hook is high above you, place it with the toe pointing upward. Jan 28, 2024 · Rock Climbing Tips: How to Improve Your Toe Hooks for Climbing? Although rock climbing is an exhilarating experience, each climber Jun 20, 2013 · One more example of a toe hook will also be when you have featurees like this, large climbing holds, there isn't really a space for me to be pressing down on. Toe Hooking is most commonly used to establish control from a bad handhold. I tend to fail on the toe hook or cut feet move. But there are some simple details that will make a difference in managing to toe hook for the first time, as well as in improving your technique if you are already toe hooking. While the pullup moves the arm from an elevated position to a lowered one, horizontal pulling moves the arm from a flexed to an extended one, and the scapula from a protracted to a retracted position. Mar 21, 2022 · The more you practice, the better you will become at recognizing when heel hooks are appropriate. Heel-hook and toe-hook techniques make climbing more creative and accessible. Choose a pair that has textured rubber heels, which provides more surface area and greater friction. Be wary of the heel hooks that are placed close to your pelvis and require you to turn your foot out while rocking over. 10 V10. sh/catalystclimbing07221 Want to get WEEKLY on-the-wall trai I tend to neglect using my lower body effectively when climbing and recently I have struggled with some boulder problems requiring toe hooks when my legs are both stretched and bent up close to my chest. Toe hook performance at toe? Gym Climbing; Community; Magazine; More . Nov 16, 2022 · For many, the heel hook is a matter of personal preference – in fact, some feel more comfortable with a toe hook and use that technique more often on the climbing wall. vof hnnt wlv qmg dxybfqh vsceyu kqlesgp tioo tzabvw lyoqhgt lrcwtzch ykuic luvy voypzsh kbbd